Diary of a Victorian Dandy: 17:00 hours, 1998.
"In a way, when people see an artist of African origin, they think: oh, he is here to protest. Yes, okay. I am here to protest, but I am going to do it like a gentleman. It is going to look very nice. You are not even going to realize that I am protesting, you are going to invite me to your museum because the work is nice, and then when I am inside, it is too late. But I have to do it nicely—because if I am already coming to you with a knife, you're going to send me away."
Yinka Shonibare CBE
Yinka Shonibare CBE was born in London and raised in Nigeria. He studied art at Goldsmiths College in London and today is one of the most widely known and successful Afro-British artists. In 2019, he was given the title Commander of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire and has since added the acronym CBE to his official name. Well-versed in postcolonial cultural theory, Shonibare sees himself as a "postcolonial hybrid" who practices the genteel restraint of a British gentleman and has gained access to the most prestigious museums of the Western world with his exquisitely tailored parodies of the lifestyle of the British upper classes. Shonibare's amiable and stylistically consummate subversion consists in his signature use of double-sided, colourfully printed cotton fabrics to invade the art and museum worlds. Seen as typically African, the fabrics are a telling example of global colonial entanglements; known as Dutch wax, the fabrics were originally created in an attempt to imitate the patterns of the elaborately handcrafted Indonesian batik fabrics and produce them on an industrial scale in a textile printing process.
Postcolonial art refers to art produced in response to the aftermath of colonial rule, frequently addressing issues of national and cultural identity, race and ethnicity. Refer to the Tate's online glossary for more.
However, the new mass product failed to be successful in the Dutch colony and, in the nineteenth century, found its way to West Africa, where a market for the printed cotton fabrics developed. In the second half of the nineteenth century, the fabrics came to be designed and produced mainly in the Netherlands and England, while Africa became the largest market for them. Today, much of the production takes place in Africa and China; only the most expensive fabrics are made in Holland. The Dutch town of Helmond near Eindhoven is where Vlisco's exquisite patterns are created, which are then used to tailor "Africouture" clothing in West Africa. And this is also where Shonibare obtains the fabrics for his postcolonial role plays and ironic deconstructions of Victorian traditions and customs.
The Victorian Philanthropist's Parlour, 1996–1997.
The hybrid history of the wax prints and their multifarious symbolic appropriation as an expression of supposed authenticity, fashionable individuality and cultural belonging reveal the ambivalent and asymmetric relationship between colonial power and colonized, which persists to the present day. Shonibare's subversive strategy, meanwhile, consists in harnessing the colonial past and postcolonial present of his industrially manufactured material to create works which visually seduce the viewer, while at the same time revealing themselves as self-reflective constructs. His work relies on theatricality and employs visual alienating effects which comment on and, in doing so, subvert the beautiful or historical illusion. Similar to the concept of metafiction used in postmodern literary theory, he seeks to critically examine the relationship of art and life by means of parody? When dressing headless figures in Victorian fashion, bedecking interiors with pseudo-African fabrics or staging himself in a period series as an admired black dandy of the Victorian Empire, he always occupies a dual position which, incapable of being assimilated or exoticized, instead explores the third space where cultures meet and mix. The objective of Shonibare's playful visual grammar is to show hybridity, while at the same time consistently frustrating any desire for authenticity in the sense of a longing for immediacy, originality, genuineness and purity.
Scramble for Africa, 2003.
England's rise to colonial world power from the eighteenth century on serves as the preferred historical backdrop for his installations. For his early work The Victorian Philanthropist's Parlour (1996–1997) Shonibare already recreated a Victorian drawing room with chair, chaise longue, tables, carpets, fireplace and mirror. The persuasive power of a Victorian period room in this conceptual work is already countered by its set-like appearance, but even more effective are the wax prints with which the artist upholstered the walls and all the furniture and which are printed with colourful floral patterns and images of African footballers. This anachronism serves both to blur the boundary between fiction and historiography and to visualize British colonial rule and its consequences. In this ostensible stage set of British domestic life and culture, Shonibare enacts the drama of postcolonialism.
The by now iconic photo series Diary of a Victorian Dandy, which in 1998 was placarded in numerous stations of the London Underground, featured Shonibare himself in the Victorian interior, appearing as a Victorian-African dandy whose daily routine is depicted in five tableaux vivants. Each time, the Black artist is the centre of attention and the composition; all admiring eyes of his white servants, friends and guests are on him when he is awakened in the morning, discusses business matters in the library and subsequently plays billiards. The evening is spent in the company of beautiful women and with the accompaniment of chamber music, with the final picture showing late-night debauchery involving both sexes. Shonibare presents impossible situations by drawing on the conversation pieces of William Hogarth and inverting the hierarchy of skin colour, so that the racist regime of the gaze underlying this type of genre painting is made obvious. Not interested in Hogarth's moralism, he instead presents and celebrates sexual excess, lavish luxury and the wilful and anti-bourgeois decadence of the dandy. Shonibare's relationship to the Victorian era is ambivalent; on the one hand, he is personally fascinated with Victorian style, refined luxury and the exquisite taste of the British aristocracy, but on the other, he emphasizes the inhuman flipside of the Victorian era: "Of course I realized, as an African, that Victorian values for me, were very draconian… The Victorians colonized Afrika. Basically, the Victorians made Africans work to produce a great empire. So Victorian values, to me, were values of repression, values of making me feel inferior."
With Scramble for Africa (2003), Shonibare created a particularly impressive tableau illustrating the colonization of the African continent and the imperial cupidity of the European powers. This expansive installation references the Congo Conference which took place in Berlin in 1884–85 and served as the basis for the colonial partitioning of Africa. A contemporary map of Africa showing the then current state of European occupation is embedded in the middle of the oblong conference table. Seated at it are fourteen headless figures clad in Dutch wax who represent the states participating in the conference and whose "scramble" augurs the so-called race for Africa. By the turn of the century, the participating colonial powers had already divided ninety percent of the territory of Africa among themselves.
Discobolus (after Naukydes), 2017.
Ever since the late 1990s, Shonibare had been employing exceptionally well-dressed, but headless mannequins to both celebrate and satirise the gallantries, excesses, duels and bucolic leisure activities, in short, the decadent and sumptuous lifestyle of polite society or, alternatively, the quest for knowledge of Europe's educated classes. As guillotined or headless bodies, the figures are robbed of their individuality, more illusion than reality, their skin colour ambiguous—they are bearers of cultural patterns, instruments of deception, objects of desire and reflect historical experiences and power relations.
More recently, a keen interest in cartography and globes has been evident in Shonibare's work. In his reconfigurations of classical sculptures, again featuring the typical Dutch wax batik design, the heads have been replaced with hand-coloured globes. Through this critical gesture in the beautiful guise of classical aesthetics, Shonibare calls for historical multi-perspectivity and a rethinking of space, mobility and cultural identity. The binary division of the world into "we" and "the others", East and West, First and Third World is, after all, based on strict rules of inclusion and exclusion. Moreover, the current geopolitical order is dynamic, and the present-day phrase "the Global South", as an orienting term for the non-hegemonic regions of this world, already represents a reordering of geography, at least in terms of societal and economic dynamics.
The World at the Time of the Surrealists, a surrealist world map published in the Belgian magazine Variétés in 1929, already depicted a world whose familiar contours have gone out of whack. In it certain countries and world regions gain significantly in size, while others have become infinitesimally small. The Soviet Union and China are among the winners, some regions, however, have increased tremendously in size, including the island world of the South Pacific which dominates the centre of the new world map. Alaska and Greenland as well as Mexico and Peru also appear significantly larger, whereas the British Isles have moved to the far western edge of the surreal world image and, shrunk to miniature size, appear smaller than the Hawaiian island chain in the Pacific. The USA have completely disappeared and all that is left of France is Paris, the capital of Surrealism. The playfully curving equatorial line may imply that the map not only counters European reason by offering a different topography, but also that a world of the unconscious, fantasy and imagination is entered. Of central importance, however, is the discrediting of the colonial powers expressed in this subversive map picture.
World images may be understood as a way of giving form to beliefs through which humans reassure themselves of their place in the world and the world as such. They are based on time- and culture-bound assumptions about the world and manifest themselves in world maps which, while indispensable as tools to visually communicate knowledge, invariably offer mere model-like representations of the earth and as planar projections visualize very different viewpoints and culturally determined perceptual conventions. Shonibare has applied his aesthetic concept of playful hybridity and sly, ironic reframing of cultural and visual stereotypes also to Christian imaginings of the world in the Latin Middle Ages. Commissioned to create work for Hereford Cathedral in West England, he engaged in an in-depth study of the medieval world map located there. The largest and most important surviving universal map of the Middle Ages, it was created for the cathedral around 1300 by Richard de Haldingham. The map is drawn on a single sheet of vellum using black, red, blue or green and gold ink and mounted on an oak panel. The monumental panel shows the earth as a flat, almost circular land mass traversed by rivers and mountain ranges, interspersed with seas and lakes and encircled by a narrow strip of ocean. The map relies on a basic model of representation going back to antiquity: it is a so-called "T-O map," meaning a circular, O-shaped image of the world divided into three parts by bodies of water arranged in the shape of a T. Depicting the ecumenical community as orbis tripartitus with the three continents known at the time, the east-oriented map shows Asia taking up the entire upper semicircle and Europe and Africa the left and right half of the lower semicircle. The Mediterranean, the Don and the Nile are located in the midst of the three continents. Not a travel map, the Hereford map is to be understood as a universal imago mundi, an image of the world. In the centre of the map, and thus of the world, appears Jerusalem, the city from which the history of salvation started out. Strikingly, Europe includes considerably more topographical details, rivers and cities than Asia or Africa. The farther you move away from city-rich Europe and from Asia Minor and North Africa towards the edges, the wilder and more inhospitable the areas and the stronger the animals and human beings you encounter on your graphic hike. You meet legendary peoples, hybrid creatures and curious animals scattered across the entire earth backdrop. India and Ethiopia have the largest share of them: India is home to the sciapods, the pygmies and the giants, the mouthless people, the manticore and the unicorn. North of lndia, in Scythia and neighbouring countries and islands, we encounter humans with horse's hooves, long-eared people and man-eaters. Ethiopia is home to satyrs and fauns, to long-lipped people and ones with faces between the shoulders and on the chest. Some of the wondrous beings must, in fact, have left their ancestral homelands following the discovery of America, for the European conquerors spotted dog-headed creatures (cynocephali) and headless Blemmyes in Latin America as well.
Creatures of the Mappa Mundi - Monocules, 2018.
The dwellers at the earth's edge shown in the Hereford map refer to numerous fantastic mythical creatures which already preoccupied the ancient authors. Pliny's Natural History and De mirabilibus mundi, a "collection of curiosities" compiled by the late antique polyhistor Solinus who is repeatedly mentioned in the mop, passed down those mythological narrative which forced the church fathers to somehow explain whether the human-like "monsters" could have been part of the divine plan of creation. Saint Augustine was convinced that, provided they were indeed human beings, they had to have descended from Adam and Eve or from Noah's sons as legitimate images of God. The Bible doesn't say anything about how Noah divided the large cake called earth among his sons, but it is assumed that he gave the biggest and best piece to his firstborn son, Shem. The next best one went to Japheth and then all that was left for Ham, who had been cursed by his father, was Africa. In the clerical theory of descent, Ham thus became the progenitor of the Africans, condemned by his father to be his brothers' servant. Thus, the right to oppress and enslave was derived from the miracle of creation.
Shonibare's approach to the hybrid creatures and projections of the Hereford Mappa Mundi is, again, that of playful parody. Conveniently, hybridity is essentially the defining feature of those living at the earth's edge. In the catalogue of origin myths and fictitious genealogies, they represent the radical and uncanny Other and thus reflect a massive Occidental ethnocentrism. Shonibare, however, converts this exclusion into elegant exclusivity by celebrating the peculiarity and eccentricity of those figments of the imagination and turns them into aliens fallen from the sky who, equipped with parachutes, float in the air or have already landed. Other-worldly creatures, they are oddballs in decorative surroundings who are appreciated and respected for their peculiarity. The brightly colourful textile works present a cheerful deconstruction and reversal of dark stereotypes. The 2019 exhibition Creatures of the Mappa Mundi shown at Hereford Cathedral is an impressive document of inclusion and emancipation, as Shonibare and his cooperation partners managed to get various local groups of marginalized people involved in the production of the truly wonderful creatures. In this way, a different story is told.
Yinka Shonibare, End of Empire, 2016. Fiberglass mannequins, Dutch wax printed cotton textiles, metal, motor, globes and leather.
End of Empire by Yinka Shonibare CBE is a striking work featuring two figures dressed in the artist’s signature Dutch wax batik fabric, seated on a Victorian see-saw which slowly pivots in the space. This powerful imagery imitates the shifting points of balance in world politics over the course of World War I and the ensuing colonial fallout. The figures’ heads are replaced by globes, the maps depicting geopolitical borders as they were drawn in 1917. The bodies are clothed in Victorian suits, their colonial implications skewed by the brightly coloured fabric that, in Shonibare’s own words, is “Ethnisicing the Aristocracy”. This is characteristic of the artist’s engaged and critical approach, which uses appealing imagery and light-hearted insertions such as the see-saw to tackle important issues head on. First exhibited in 2016 at Turner Contemporary, Margate, UK, End of Empire was created by Shonibare as part of 14–18 NOW, a programme of World War I Centenary Art commissions to commemorate the First World War.
Watch the video below to see End of Empire in motion.
In the video below, by the Turner Contemporary gallery, Shonibare participates in a panel discussion on the themes of empire and war surrounding his art practice.